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Upon meeting our guide, Ana, in the multicultural Martim Moniz square, she explained how the Mouraria neighbourhood came about.
Essentially, after the Reconquista , in which Christian forces took control over the territory now known as Portugal, the resident Muslim population was forced to live outside the city walls. Ana explained the importance of a morning coffee in between leaving home and starting the work day and introduced us to the Mouraria cake pastel de Mouraria.
This genre was originally by the people and for the people who lived in and frequented the seedier parts of Lisbon. Coincidentally, he was born in the house opposite that of another fadista who had enjoyed notoriety years previously. Next stop was the wavy paving of Rossio square, where we learned about the earthquake and the subsequent reconstruction of Lisbon as well as the amazing urban planning skills of the Marquis de Pombal. You can see the elaborate ironwork and admire the views for free from the upper platform.
Right next to the elevator is the ruined Carmo church, which has remained roofless since the earthquake as a memorial. Blessed with good weather, we enjoyed a smooth ferry ride across the River Tagus with lovely views of the pastel colours and red rooftops of Lisbon.