Since my first night there watching a silent Chaplin film accompanied by a live pianist, I have frequently visited and walked through Largo do Intendente , more commonly known as just Intendente. The area is relatively small. At the s outh edge of the park, separating it from the main street, is a dome-shaped Art Nouveau building, designed in As is the way of the world, especially in such pristine locations, it was transformed into a luxury four-star hotel earlier this year, aptly named Hotel Lisboa.
I would call the place a square rather than a park. The prostitutes still come out, but mostly at night. The drug-dealing is now limited to scamming the occasional tourist and the atmosphere is usually safe and lively. Police presence is common, which prevented a friend of mine from doing their business one late night in January, but there are plenty of bathroom options during the day.
I have seen this particular work of art used for various purposes other than sitting or loving, some more hygienic than others. But it is definitely a popular attraction and perhaps to Intendente what the Dragon or the free bathrooms are to Martim Moniz. In many ways, especially according to the locals, these two neighborhoods are close relatives in terms of recent development, popularity, and vibe, a lthough more people sit on the floor in Martim Moniz.
A raggedy flag made of a few dozen shreds of black fabric marks its entrance. On the second floor inside are stages and decent-sized dance areas that often host local musical talent and other events. There is a nice cozy bar, with snacks, cocktails, young friendly bilingual staff, and fair prices. This bar leads to an outdoor garden area, with couches, chairs, tables, ashtrays, plants, books. There are always several happy faces, local and otherwise, enjoying wine, friends, love interests.
But some time last year this cat went missing; rumor has it that it was recently spotted in the house of a local gypsy woman. Whatever the case , Casa Independente is a prolonged pit stop for many on long winter nights. With summer approaching and the face-lifting of Mouraria well under way, the prices will go up, but the atmosphere still feels laid-back and inviting.
